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Contents 1 The Inspiration 2 Descriptions 2.1 D'Angelines 2.1.1 Beggers 2.1.2 Commoners 2.1.3 Cassilines 2.1.4 Courtesans 2.1.5 Adepts 2.2 Symbolism 2.3 Fabrics and Trims 3 Medieval Jobs

The Inspiration

Official Website of Jacqueline Carey

Descriptions

Confused by the theme? Need help with a desc? This is where you may find some help.

D'Angelines

Physically, a D'Angeline tends to be fairly tall; the men around 6 feet tall and the women around 5'8-9". Facial hair on men tends to be sparse, and in some of the older bloodlines there's none at all. While not as outwardly physical as their neighbours, the common D'Angeline is no stranger to a good day's hard work. They tend to live a more relaxed and peaceful life than their neighbouring countries, thanks to the richness of their country and the protective geography of their borders.

They wear whatever happens to be the fashion of the Royal Court; styles change at a sometimes frantic pace. Generally, the most accepted - if boring - garb for men is a doublet or tunic (as elaborate as possible), close-fitting leggings, hose, or breeches, and such additions as a cape or cloak, stylish hat, and leather boots. A recurring theme for men is also the addition of a rapier and flintlock pistol (unloaded!) worn on the belt - even if the wearer doesn't know how to use them.

The styles for women tend to change much more rapidly. Influenced by the Caerdicci and Aragonians, D'Angeline female styles reflect showing off the body's curves rather than hiding it with padding or too many layers. Dresses tend to be more elaborate and complex for more important functions; daily wear tends to consist of a simpler dress or skirt-tunic ensemble more suited to the task or season. Trousers or leggings on women are very rare, except in working conditions.

While there are very few destitute people in Terre d'Ange, even the poorest can usually find or make themselves decent clothing. Since fashions change so often, it's quite easy to purchase very cheap second-hand articles. And who knows, maybe the next month it'll be back in style!

The style tends to draw more from Renaissance and Tudor eras than from the rather plain garb of the 1200s. Here are some suggested sites to draw from: The Very, Merry Seamstress Tudor Costuming Guide The Renaissance Store Carpatina A Step Through Time The Costumer's Manifesto 1500s In Fashion

Beggers

Beggars are fairly rare in Terre d'Ange itself, though are somewhat more common in other less well-off nations, such as Caerdicca and Aragonia. Skaldia has no beggars to speak of - anyone who doesn't work doesn't get to eat, making begging quite an impossibility.

Beggars, for whatever reason, have little to no wealth except what they can scrounge for on a day-to-day basis. They must constantly deal with issues like starvation and shelter; it's a struggle for survival that's difficult to escape from. Their clothes tend to reflect this - often a beggar will wear castoff peasant clothing, almost always dirty or torn. Some beggars are soldiers who lack any other skills once they've become too injured to fight, though even then many soldiers acquire a pension after a certain number of years served.

Commoners

Commoners tend to dress in quite simple garb - In Caerdicca the commoners tend to wear a single long cotton tunic that reaches mid-thigh, while in Terre d'Ange they often wear a tunic and leggings (or a simple, plain dress for women). Most fabric is homespun and coarse, though nearly all commoners have at least one outfit of higher quality for important occasions. Typical commoners tend to look at the higher social classes with either awe or well-hidden jealousy, and do their utmost to be successful so they too can climb the ladder - or at least help their children do so.

Cassilines

The Cassiline Monk tends to wear dark grey in a severe cut, with their hair cut short or in a single braid tied at the nape of the neck. They are quite Spartan in both frugality and luxury, preferring to remain simple, humble, and calm of mind. All Cassilines take vows of chastity, and are excommunicated if they break it.

Courtesans

House Courtesans working towards their marque wore lovely clothing that was most often the property of the House itself. The quality and expense is similar to that which a lesser ranking noble might wear. On occasion they may have pieces of clothing given to them as patron gifts that they might keep for their own.

Adepts

Adepts tend to wear simple robes or gowns in the colors of their Houses.

Symbolism

Various patterns in Terre D'Ange hold symbolic meaning, either as the sacred symbol of one of the Angels or Companions, or the Heraldry of a Duchy. People wear them to show affinity to certain groups or beliefs. For example, the pattern of a lily and stars is the official symbol of Terre D'Ange, and worn only by members of the Royal Family. Three golden keys interlocking is the symbol of House Shahrizai and of the Angel Kushiel. A dove is the symbol of the Angel Naamah.

Fabrics and Trims

Linen shirts and chemises or smocks had full sleeves and often full bodies, pleated or gathered closely at neck and wrist. The resulting small frill gradually became a wide ruffle, presaging the ruff of the latter half of the century. These garments were often decorated with embroidery in black or red silk. Small geometric patterns appeared early in the period and, in England, evolved into the elaborate patterns associated with the flowering of blackwork embroidery. German shirts and chemises were decorated with wide bands of gold trim at the neckline, which was uniformly low early in the period and grew higher by midcentury.

Silk brocades and velvets in bold floral patterns based on pomegranate and thistle or artichoke motifs remained fashionable for those who could afford them, although they were often restricted to kirtles, undersleeves and doublets revealed beneath gowns of solid-coloured fabrics or monochromatic figured silks. Yellow and red were fashionable colors.

Elaborate slashing remained popular, especially in Germany, where a fashion arose for assembling garments in alternating bands of contrasting fabrics. Elsewhere, slashing was more restrained, but bands of contrasting fabric, whether in color or texture, were common as trim on skirts, sleeves, and necklines, as were bands of embroidery or applied passementerie. Bobbin lace arose in this period, probably in Flanders, and was used both as an edging and as applied trim.

Starter List of Fabrics: (either used in the books themselves or otherwise deemed appropriate due to period) (Descriptions when available are short and sweet for a reason)

• Cotton
• Linen
• Silk
• Velvet
• Satin
• Taffeta (shiny, stiff fabric)
• Jersey (jersey is a weave made from another fabric, i.e. silk jersey, cotton jersey, etc. It is clingy and soft)
• Brocade (fabric with a pattern woven in)
• Jacquard (another kind of fabric with a pattern woven in, usually softer than brocade)
• Cloth of Gold (slightly metallic fabric made by weaving thread of real gold in with silk. *very expensive* (If you are not a high ranking noble, you probably do not have the means for this)
• Cloth of Silver (see above)
• Suede
• Leather
• Wool

Medieval Jobs

[1997-2005 Lise Hull]

One would expect the Middle Ages to have been a simple time, with few truly distinctive occupations, save the lord of the manor, his knights, his household, and the peasants. But, the complexity of the medieval working world is startling. Yes, the above are typical occupations of the age, but within these broad classifications we can define an incredible array of other occupations.

True, medieval jobs were not all fulfilling or stepping stones to success and status, as we envision the knight's position in the lord's court. However, each occupation filled a crucial place in the social system of the Middle Ages, ensuring virtually every imaginable need could be handled by an individual with the proper training or know-how.

Basically, society was divided between two classes, positions of status and positions that were not. Nevertheless, while the lord and members of his entourage had status, they could not survive without the support, albeit drawn through oppression, of the peasants. Medieval society was like a jigsaw puzzle. Each segment was an integral piece of the complete system. Without any one part, the system could not work. As villages developed alongside the castle, occupations began to differentiate during the Middle Ages. Indeed, the growth of many towns directly resulted from the introduction of commercial endeavors, which were necessary to sustain the castle or the manor, as well as the local populace.

A merchant class quickly developed once feudalism was established in Europe. These merchants became wealthy in their own right, owning grand homes of their own comparable to the best in the land. They transported the products of craftsmen, laborers, and skilled workers across the nation, and internationally as well, furthering trade and acting as envoys between the regions they served.

In existence as early as the reign of Charlemagne and used by the Anglo-Saxons, the guild was of primary importance during the Middle Ages. Initially a rudimentary plan designed to support a certain group of workers (each village originally had one or two guilds), the guild system rapidly expanded throughout Europe. In essence, these organizations were prototypes of modern trade unions and functioned in an almost identical manner. Their main intention was "to promote economic welfare of its members and guarantee full employment at high wages by restricting membership (Bishop)." Virtually every medieval occupation had its own guild, including bell ringers, minstrels, candle makers, grocers and weavers.

The following lists many occupations that prevailed during the Middle Ages. Even though the individuals who held the positions have long since disappeared, often leaving no record of their existence, their legacy is still very visible in modern surnames. See if you recognize them...

• Almoners: ensured the poor received alms.
• Atilliator: skilled castle worker who made crossbows.
• Baliff: in charge of allotting jobs to the peasants, building repair, and repair of tools used by the peasants.
• Barber: someone who cut hair. Also served as dentists, surgeons and blood-letters.
• Blacksmith: forged and sharpened tools and weapons, beat out dents in armor, made hinges for doors, and window grills. Also referred to as Smiths.
• Bottler: in charge of the buttery or bottlery.
• Butler: cared for the cellar and was in charge of large butts and little butts (bottles) of wine and beer. Under him a staff of people might consist of brewers, tapsters, cellarers, dispensers, cupbearers and dapifer.
• Carder: someone who brushed cloth during its manufacture.
• Carpenter: built flooring, roofing, siege engines, furniture, panelling for rooms, and scaffoling for building.
• Carters: workmen who brought wood and stone to the site of a castle under construction.
• Castellan: resident owner or person in charge of a castle (custodian).
• Chamberlain: responsible for the great chamber and for the personal finances of the castellan.
• Chaplain: provided spirtual welfare for laborers and the castle garrison. The duties might also include supervising building operations, clerk, and keeping accounts. He also tended to the chapel.
• Clerk: a person who checked material costs, wages, and kept accounts.
• Constable: a person who took care (the governor or warden) of a castle in the absence of the owner. This was sometimes bestowed upon a great baron as an honor and some royal castles had hereditary constables.
• Cook: roasted, broiled, and baked food in the fireplaces and ovens.
• Cottars: the lowest of the peasantry. Worked as swine-herds, prison guards, and did odd jobs.
• Ditcher: worker who dug moats, vaults, foundations and mines.
• Dyer: someone who dyed cloth in huge heated vats during its manufacture.
• Ewerer: worker who brought and heated water for the nobles.
• Falconer: highly skilled expert responsible for the care and training of hawks for the sport of falconry.
• Fuller: worker who shrinks & thickens cloth fibers through wetting & beating the material.
• Glaziers: a person who cut and shaped glass.
• Gong Farmer: a latrine pit emptier.
• Hayward: someone who tended the hedges.
• Herald: knights assistant and an expert advisor on heraldry.
• Keeper of the Wardrobe: in charge of the tailors and laundress.
• Knight: a professional soldier. This was achieved only after long and arduous training which began in infancy.
• Laird: minor baron or small landlord.
• Marshal: officer in charge of a household's horses, carts, wagons, and containers. His staff included farriers, grooms, carters, smiths and clerks. He also oversaw the transporting of goods.
• Master Mason: responsible for the designing and overseeing the building of a structure.
• Messengers: servants of the lord who carried receipts, letters, and commodities.
• Miner: skilled professional who dug tunnels for the purpose of undermining a castle.
• Minstrels: part of of the castle staff who provided entertainment in the form of singing and playing musical instruments.
• Porter: took care of the doors (janitor), particularly the main entrance. Responsible for the guardrooms. The person also insured that no one entered or left the castle withour permission. Also known as the door-ward.
• Reeve: supervised the work on lord's property. He checked that everyone began and stopped work on time, and insured nothing was stolen. Senior officer of a borough.
• Sapper: an unskilled person who dug a mine or approach tunnel.
• Scullions: responsible for washing and cleaning in the kitchen.
• Shearmen: a person who trimmed the cloth during its manufacture.
• Shoemaker: a craftsman who made shoes. Known also as Cordwainers.
• Spinster: a name given to a woman who earned her living spinning yarn. Later this was expanded and any unmarried woman was called a spinster.
• Steward: took care of the estate and domestic administration. Supervised the household and events in the great hall. Also referred to as a Seneschal.
• Squire: attained at the age of 14 while training as a knight. He would be assigned to a knight to carry and care for the weapons and horse.
• Watchmen: an official at the castle responsible for security. Assited by lookouts (the garrison).
• Weaver: someone who cleaned and compacted cloth, in association with the Walker and Fuller.
• Woodworkers: tradesmen called Board-hewers who worked in the forest, producing joists and beams.

Other medieval jobs included: tanners, soap makers, cask makers, cloth makers, candle makers (chandlers), gold and silver smiths, laundresses, bakers, grooms, pages, huntsmen, doctors, painters, plasterers, and painters, potters, brick and tile makers, glass makers, shipwrights, sailors, butchers, fishmongers, farmers, herdsmen, millers, the clergy, parish priests, members of the monastic orders, innkeepers, roadmenders, woodwards (for the forests). slingers.

Other Domestic jobs inside the castle or manor: Personal attendants- ladies-in-waiting, chamber maids, doctor. The myriad of people involved in the preparation and serving of meals- brewers, poulterer, fruiterers, slaughterers, dispensers, cooks and the cupbearers (who had the dubious privilege of tasting drinks for impurities!).